The criteria for awarding the EU Ecolabel to textile products, and the sub-categories under which they are grouped, are as follows:

Appendix 1 additionally contains the RSL referred to in criterion 13. This lists restrictions applying to hazardous substances that may be used to manufacture textile products and which may be contained in the final product.

The Ecolabel criteria reflect the best environmental performing products on the market of textiles. Whilst the use of chemical products and release of pollutants is part of the production process, a product that bears the EU Ecolabel guarantees the consumer that the use of such substances has been limited to the extent technically possible without prejudice to the fitness for use.

The criteria exclude whenever possible or restrict at minimum the concentration (required for providing specific functions and properties) of a number of substances identified as hazardous or potentially hazardous to the human health and the environment that may be used to manufacture textiles. Only where a substance is required to meet consumer performance expectations or mandated requirements for the product (for instance flame retardancy), and where there are no applied and tested available alternatives, derogation for such a substance to be used in the Ecolabel is granted.

Derogations are evaluated on the basis of the precautionary principle and scientific and technical evidence, especially if safer products are available on the market.

Product testing for restricted hazardous substances is requested in order to provide a high level of assurance to consumers. Strict conditions are also imposed on the manufacturing processes for textiles to control pollution of water and air, and to minimise exposure of the workforce. The verification of compliance with the criteria is formulated in a way that provides a high level of assurance to consumers, reflects the practical potential for applicants to obtain information from the supply chain and excludes the potential for ‘free riding’ by applicants.

Assessment and verificationIn order to show compliance with the criteria the applicant is required to declare the following information about the product(s) and their supply chain:

Each criteria contains detailed verification requirements which require the applicant to compile declarations, documentation, analyses, test reports and other evidence relating to the product(s) and their supply chain.

The validity of the license is based on verification upon application and, where specified under criterion 13, product testing which shall be submitted to competent bodies for verification. Changes in suppliers and production sites pertaining to licensed products shall be notified to competent bodies, together with supporting information to verify ongoing compliance with the license conditions.

Competent bodies shall preferentially recognise tests by laboratories which are accredited according to ISO 17025 and verifications performed by bodies which are accredited under the EN 45011 standard or an equivalent international standard.

The functional unit, to which inputs and outputs should be related, is 1 kg of textile product at normal conditions (65 % RH ± 4 % and 20 oC ± 2 °C; these norm conditions are specified in ISO 139 Textiles — standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing).

Where the applicant uses a certification system to provide independent verifications the chosen system and associated systems for accreditation of verifiers shall meet the general requirements of EN 45011 and ISO 17065. Where appropriate, competent bodies may require supporting documentation and may carry out independent verifications and site visits.

The competent bodies are recommended to take into account the implementation of recognised environmental management schemes, such as EMAS, ISO 14001 and ISO 50001, when assessing applications and monitoring compliance with the criteria (note: it is not required to implement such management schemes).